Shaken and Self Inspection

At Japan Car Direct, our translated auction sheets might say, “recently passed bi-annual inspection”.  To a buyer in a foreign country, these words may not mean much, but these words may actually be the biggest indicator of the condition of the car.  Shaken (車検), is short for Jidosha Kensa Torokuseido and pronounced like Sharp and the name Ken.

Shaken is the name of the vehicle inspection program for all vehicles over 250cc (motorcycles included), and is in place to ensure that all road vehicles are properly maintained for safety and are not illegally modified.  Shaken is one of the most stringent and expensive tests for automobiles in the world.  Oftentimes, Japanese people will buy a new vehicle instead of dealing with the expense and hassle of maintaining their cars well enough to pass Shaken.  Many sellers of vehicles at auction will include maintenance and inspection records with the car. Shaken is one of the reasons why the average new vehicle ownership in Japan is so short, and why we can find good quality used vehicles for our clients.

R35 GT-R entering a Shaken testing station

This series will go in depth on the ins and outs of Japan’s Shaken process.

PART IA: 60 part Shaken Self Inspection 1-26 (Tenken Seibi Kirokubo)

The first inspection for Shaken starts even before arriving at the testing center and is called the Tenken Seibi Kirokubo (点検整備記録簿). The Tenken Seibi Kirokubo is a 60 part inspection that all Japanese car owners are obligated to do every two years. It is possible to just check all the boxes, but since any and all of these items are or can be inspected during the actual Shaken test, it is advisable to actually check the items. Part IA will go in depth on the first 26 points of this Shaken Self Inspection.

Example Tenken Seibi Kirokubo

1. Engine Room Inspection/li>
   1. Power Steering/li>
      1. Belt properly tightened and not worn/li>
         1. Belt tension is checked by pressing the middle of the belt with 10kg’s of force and checking to see if the deflection is within manufactures specs. If the vehicle has seen normal use and is not making any noise, it is probably not loose
         2. Belt wear should be checked by looking not only at the back side (flat side) of the belt but also the contact side for any cracks or fraying
      2. Parts are properly fastened
         1. Check tightness of all bolts, nuts and hoses. If fasteners are tight and hoses are not leaking at the connection points, the parts are most likely properly fastened

• Power steering fluid level and leaks
  1. Check power steering fluid level with engine off and wheels straight using dipstick
  2. Check if power steering fluid is leaking from any associated parts or hoses

1. Ignition system
   1. Spark plugs
      1. Check spark plug gap
      2. Check plug condition and fouling
   2. Timing
      1. If there is no knocking or unusual exhaust conditions timing is most likely ok

• Distributor cap
  1. Check distributor cap for dirt, oil, grime buildup and corrosion

Spark plugs in poor condition

1. Battery and wiring
   1. Battery terminals tight and corrosion
      1. Check for battery terminal charge
      2. Check for battery terminal corrosion
      3. Check for battery leaks
   2. Electric wires are not lose or damaged
      1. Check wires in engine bay for fraying or other damage
      2. Check connections for proper tightness
   3. Engine
      1. Exhaust gases
         1. Check with exhaust tester
      2. Air filter condition
         1. Check air filter for dirtiness or clogs. Clean or replace as necessary.

• Oil leaks
  1. Check for oil leaks from engine, oil cooler, oil filter

Engine oil leak

1. Cooling system
   1. Fan belt properly tightened and not worn
      1. Belt tension is checked by pressing the middle of the belt with 10kg’s of force and checking to see if the deflection is within manufactures specs. If the vehicle has seen normal use and is not making any noise, it is probably not loose
      2. Belt wear should be checked by looking not only at the back side (flat side) of the belt but also the contact side for any cracks or fraying
   2. Coolant leaks
      1. Check radiator, water pump, radiator hoses, radiator cap for coolant leaks
   3. Fuel system
      1. Fuel leaks
         1. Check hoses, pipes, fittings, filter and other fuel related parts for leaks, wear and cracks
      2. Throttle linkage
         1. Check throttle cable for wear and proper tension

• Throttle valve, choke valve operation
  1. If vehicle is running without problems this is likely not an issue

1. Emissions related
   1. PCV valve
      1. Check with vacuum tester
   2. Crankcase breather hose
      1. Check for cracks and leaks

• EVAP system
  1. Check for cracks and leaks

1. EVAP check valve
   1. Check with vacuum tester
2. Charcoal canister
   1. Check cleanliness and buildup
3. Catalytic converter condition and installation
   1. Check with exhaust tester, if normal range, converter is most likely ok

• Air injection system
  1. Check for cracks and leaks
• EGR condition
  1. Check for cracks and leaks
  2. Check with vacuum tester

1. BCDD and other low speed emissions devices
   1. Check with vacuum tester
2. Carbon monoxide and other emissions related devices hoses and connectors and installation
   1. Check as per manufactures instruction

EVAP system

PART IB:  60 part Shaken Self Inspection 27-60 (Tenken Seibi Kirokubo) Coming soon!

For more information or sales inquiries please contact me at: yoshijapancardirect.com